Geniuses Must Not Die: The Rise and Fall of Galliano & McQueen
Written by Karlyne Manrique
Two of the most significant fashion documentaries, McQueen (2018) and the recently released High & Low: John Galliano (2023), are currently available on MUBI. These two carefully curated pieces, both in narrative and visual aspects, explore the careers of two of my favorite designers. They reveal clear parallels between their stories, unfolding from youthful brilliance to tragic downfall—two British prodigies who transformed French haute couture.
Galliano and McQueen’s journeys took place at different times, but both began in London’s working-class environment, where they developed deep admiration for their mothers, contrasting with complicated relationships with their fathers. Their interest in fashion became both a refuge and an obsession—an endless desire to create and learn, emerging during two pivotal moments in British fashion culture: the '80s and '90s.
Galliano entered the fashion world during the Thatcher era and the rise of the New Romantics movement, set to the soundtrack of Siouxsie & The Banshees and Spandau Ballet. Meanwhile, Lee (McQueen) started in the 1990s, amidst the supermodel era. Both were eager to learn and create, but their apprenticeship years were no small feat. Galliano began as a costume designer at the National Theatre in London, while McQueen trained with Savile Row tailors—both of them gaining hands-on experience before pursuing formal studies at the world’s most prestigious fashion school, Central Saint Martins.
I Know Better Than You
Genius often comes hand in hand with imposter syndrome, and another parallel between McQueen and Galliano was their tendency to torment themselves after every collection. Both experienced financial struggles before achieving success, yet money was never an obstacle. Even with limited budgets, these design prodigies created breathtaking, unparalleled collections—ones that, to this day, remain unmatched.
Their modest backgrounds were never barriers to making an impact; both were determined to succeed. Their years of relentless practice, insatiable curiosity, and ability to translate legends, personal stories, and inspiration into innovative forms helped them attract people willing to push them to the top.
On their path to success, they found soulmates who believed in them, though many were left behind along the way. In 2007, death marked a turning point in their most significant relationships. For Lee, it was his discoverer, the eccentric Isabella Blow, who fought against all odds to ensure McQueen was recognized. For John, it was Steven Robinson, his design assistant and friend, who supported him through grueling work and personal struggles. Robinson tragically passed away that same year, and from then on, both Galliano and McQueen spiraled downward.
From the Pinnacle to Disgrace and Death
After the devastating loss of such significant figures in 2007, both designers entered a self-destructive phase. They appeared gaunt and worn, though they continued to produce increasingly breathtaking collections—distracting even their closest confidants from the fragile state they were in.
For Lee, the final blow came with the death of his mother, the most important person in his life, the one who had kept him going after Issie’s passing. On February 11, 2010, just days after her death, McQueen made the tragic decision to take his own life.
For John Galliano, the death was not literal but professional, coming a year later with the La Perle café incident in Paris in 2011. He was reported to have made aggressive and racist remarks toward other patrons on multiple occasions—behavior that reflected a Galliano lost in alcohol, despair, overwork, stimulants, and grief. While this event was a career-destroying tragedy, it ultimately saved him from the same fate as McQueen.
Years later, he managed to resurface thanks to Maison Margiela—because the prodigy within him never died. While some have forgiven him and others have not, the documentary still reveals the heavy emotional burden he carries and his ongoing journey of recovery, even 14 years after those dark events.
Geniuses Should Not Die
Overwork, the relentless demands of the fashion industry, fame, and the ego that arises when one excels too much can lead sensitive souls, like these two designers, to collapse in the worst ways. In recent years, fashion’s pressure has led other designers to say "enough," raising awareness of this problem within the system and choosing to step back in search of peace—the kind that comes from creating for passion rather than corporate mandates or personal ego.
Both stories—especially that of John Galliano—are narratives of success, ego, sadness, addiction, and destruction, but also of beauty and redemption. They show us that behind magnificent collections, there may be someone enduring intense suffering. These stories remind us of the importance of embracing the human side of geniuses, who, despite their brilliance, also have a dark side, experience pain, and need the healing power of forgiveness—from others and themselves.
«Ascenso y caída: John Galliano» (2023) Nicholas Matthews/ Filmin
High & Low: John Galliano (2023) Nicholas Matthews / Filmin
McQueen (2018) and High & Low: John Galliano (2023) are deeply emotional documentaries that made me appreciate these designers even more—not just for their work, but for their inner struggles. Many refused to see their shadows amidst so much light or to offer them the right help when they needed it most. If they had, perhaps their stories—and the fashion industry itself—might have taken a different course. Because, as Mecano once said: "We are running short on geniuses."
